MARQUAND CHEEK: SPEED OR ACCURACY
 The 0 for 2 and 3-S Rule of Training
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In the accuracy vs. speed training discussion I think it's important to ensure that the dog is successful and thereby gains confidence in themselves and ultimately you as a trainer/ handler.

I have a couple of self-imposed guidelines or rules to help in this regard:

The 0 for 2 Rule
means if my dog and I as a team 'fail' to negotiate a training sequence successfully after two attempts, then I MUST figure out a way to make sure we succeed on the third attempt.  Devise another plan, soften the sequence or simply take a break so my dog doesn't get frustrated. The goal is never to go 0 for 3.   


The 3-S Rule (follows the 0 for 2 rule).
3-S means SIMPLIFY, get SUCCESS, then STEP it up a notch.
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SERPENTINE
If, for example, you have set up a serpentine with wingless jumps
and for whatever reason (not enough shoulder turn, confused
dog etc) you and your dog just can't get through it properly in
two attempts then it is time to SIMPLIFY.  You might add wings to
increase visibility, widen or shorten the distance, add a slight angle to aid the dog's path through the serpentine sequence.

Sure, you could slow down to a heeling effort and regain accuracy, but I question the wisdom of sacrificing all speed for accuracy in all cases. 

Get SUCCESS with a simplified serpentine, the STEP it up a notch with jumps more in a line or without wings or closer/farther apart.  

WEAVES
If a dog is having problem with weaves, I would strongly recommend opening the weaves up (pvc on rebar slightly off a center line and canted poles with wires) so the dog can 'weave' an easier set of weaves, successfully and with speed!  See: Marq Cheek's Weave Pole Drill
As the dog gains confidence by getting SUCCESS, then you can STEP it up a notch, by removing some wires, or/and bringing in the poles while adding differing approaches and differing handler positioning. 

270 DEGREE SET OF JUMPS
I've seen teams stuggle with a 270 degree set of jumps
(something I imagine we will see more and more of in the U.S.
with the influence of European courses as rules change to
allow that in course design - speaking strictly for AKC rules
since those currently only allow a max of 180 at this time). 


Anyway, a 270 degree turn is nothing more than a pin wheel
with a missing middle jump.  So why not SIMPLIFY the 270 for
you and your dog by adding the middle jump, then getting SUCCESS, then STEP it up to a middle bar on the ground, then finally no bar and just two jumps set at a 270 angle.  

BE CREATIVE
With some creativity the possibilities are endless in training your dog to run confidently (quickly) and accurately.  Play/train in a work up fashion and don't be hasty about going for the hard stuff right away.   
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TWO OTHER TIPS
START AND FINISH WITH YOUR DOG'S FAVORITE OBSTACLES
Whether it's a 5 minute session or an all day seminar, try to start out with something that is 'easy' and fun for your dog.  My dog loves tunnels, jumps and weaves so for our short sessions I'll start with those.  Then I'll slip in his most unfavorite (aka the Aframe & Seesaw) and finish the session with his favorite obstacles in a simple loop or other formation.

ASSUME YOU CAUSED THE ERROR
If my dog runs by a jump or pops a pole or misses a discrimination test or whatever, I never immediately try to fix it.  It only serves to shut my dog down when truth be known it was most likely poor or lazy handling that caused the error in the first place.  Assume you screwed up and keep going.  Tell them they were great and if training retry one more time with a vow to handle and communicate better and with more timely verbal and non-verbal cues. 

If in competition (other than Nationals) I never fix an error.  Novice folks often can still qualify with a simple fix, but keep it fun and pretend that the 'revised' course was the 'intended' course and fool your dog into thinking they were perfect even as you fix the off course or refusal that you probably caused.
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 -Marq Cheek; from lessons learned and still learning