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Jo Sermon:
HOW
TO TRAIN FOR SPEED
I have found that the so-called
*drive* to do agility can without doubt be built
and the only limitation that I see is
physical. Dogs I'll agree come with instincts - but none of them
come with the instinct to do agility. You need to teach them how and
the end result is simply the product of a combination of the dog's
physical ability and the handler's training ability.
Teach a dog, right from the start to
go AS FAST AS POSSIBLE.
There are very few fit and
healthy dogs
that don't enjoy speed, but
If you teach them that
Agility = speed
then eventually agility will
become it's own reward and
Your dog will have FUN!!!
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Winnie
Photo: Gro Andresen |
When I first began teaching my young
Beardie, Jester, he was not particularly interested. There were BC's
there who couldn't take their eyes off the action, Jester was eyeing
up a likely hug from a possible friend.................now at age 5,
it is very hard to get him to take his eyes off the equipment and
although he will briefly acknowledge his friends, what he wants is
to play the agility game!
With regard to "difficult"
breeds,
lots of people will tell you that it's
not possible to train a cat..........
It is, you simply (!) need to find the
appropriate motivation and develop
the relevant training skills.
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I agree that many of the dogs
which are classed as high-drive can often be *easier* to motivate -
in many cases you don't have to do much motivational training at
all. But
don't write the other breeds off and
if you are a fan of a dog that isn't easy to motivate to do Agility,
DON'T believe people who tell you *well those dogs are like that*.
I did with my first Beardie and *SO* wish that I had known then what
I know now.
Buzzy was a great dog - very fast on the flat, but bored WITLESS in
agility. Poor dog, he missed out on a lot of fun. If only I could
just go back and do it properly.....................
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How:
Try setting up a 4 jumps in a straight line.
Add a start and finish line.
Time the dog over 10 goes.
If her times go something like 4 at 3 secs, 5 at 4 secs and
1 at 5 secs.
The next time reward only those that are 4 secs or better.
Use a toy preferably, either to tug or chase. If she's
outside the
time, just say "oh dear, too slow" and go back to the start
line.
Her times will very quickly ALL be 4 secs or better and so
now you up the stakes just a little and reward only those at
3.5 secs or better and so on and so on until you get no
improvement - you'll have reached her optimum performance |

Fihish
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Start________________________
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At the end of the day, what you reward
is what you get. Cheerleading, or encouragement can all be perceived
as reward and if you reward a dog for going slowly, what you'll get
is a dog that goes slowly.....................either that or they
learn to ignore the racket :-)
| What you
reward, is what you get: |
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When teaching I reward 100% every
successful attempt. When I am sure that the dog knows what is
required, I'll begin to up the criterion for reward.
If you want speed, then that is a
criterion like any other.
A word of warning though, dogs have a
VERY good sense of time and can normally "time their arrival" to
within 0.5 of a sec, so be accurate here otherwise you'll simply
confuse the dog.
Jo Sermon and Beardies from Surrey in the UK
See also: TRAIN FOR SPEED
Solveig Trippestad
www.solveigtr.com
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